A great looking tool born in the UK – The Helicon Mustard Chronograph

A tool watch deserves a place in every collection. There is nothing more satisfying that picking something overbuilt, not only when is up to a task but also when surpasses it. This way of thinking can be applied to almost any object, a car, a plane or in the case of the newest Helicon Mustard Chronograph, to a space shuttle.

Overengineering not only gives you the satisfaction of using a well-made artifact, but it also gives you the confidence that is safe, and this to me, is the unique selling point of the whole exercise. Fail safe mechanisms play a great role on how we perceived things in general.

Coming back to the latest creation from Helicon, the Mustard Chronograph, we can see that the UK based brand follow a similar ethos, one that is based on creating a watch that can withstand more that you can put it through, this me is true luxury.

The inspiration from the newest member of their family comes from the passion towards British aircraft in general and mor specific to the Multi-Unit Space Transport and Recovery Device (MUSTARD) from the 60s. Another source of inspirations was also the highly collectible Seiko chronographs which were issued to the RAF in the 80’s, which means that this watch would be a unique looking one.

I already review the first watch from the brand, the Helicon Master 62, and I was very impressed with the quality. The dial was one of the best I’ve seen at its price point and the case finishing was also outstanding, meaning that the expectations for this new watch were quite high.

I was lucky to see the full process from the renders to the 3D printing, so it is exciting to handle the final product, it feels alive. There are 4 versions available: Ion Yellow, Tropopause Blue, Stratos Blue and Graphene Grey, al of the with their own unique characteristics. Hope you enjoy the pictures and words, let’s begin.

The specifications

Case dimensions are good for a tool watch. With 41mm in diameter and under 12mm thick, the Mustard wears perfect on 6.25-inch wrist. The full brushed case matches the bi-directional countdown bezel, which is easy to grip, it brings a great tactile feel with the accustomed built quality from the brand.

A chronograph as a concept is already a tricky design, not because of all the information you have to display, but because there are many constrains on what you can play with. That said, Helicon did a great job using different models for inspiration, as mentioned the Seiko Chronographs were part of this, but there are different touches that reminds us of certain German brands which is a good thing.

The vertical Bi-Compax layout, brings order and distinction to the Mustard Chronograph. It feels different that the rest with the sub seconds at 6 and the minute counter at 12. There is a date aperture at 3 o clock with a white disc, usually I am a fan when brands colour matches the background with the dial but, because the markers and chronograph hands have white accents, it all feels balanced.

The chronograph pushers are also well thought out. To ensure water resistance the sleeves on them give the watch 100 meters in depth, this is also aided by the hydraulic pressure system of the case back.

Under that case back we can find a reliable Seiko VK64, this makes the Helicon not only easy to work with, but also low in terms of cost (more on that later). I quickly got fond of Meca-Quartz movements, they give you this mechanical feel when you operate the pushers, specially the reset one plus you have quartz precision. All of this without the hassle of service intervals.

On the wrist

With a very short lug to lug of 47.5mm, the Helicon Mustard can fit a big variety if wrists, sure is not the smallest of watches but it is quite manageable, even for me.

The FMK rubber strap also makes an appearance just like the previous model. I quite enjoy the look or rubber because the straps match the dial to perfection, that said, I would love to see this watch with a nice vintage leather strap or a dark grey nylon strap (depending on the dial variation), I think it would look just as home. We are also aware that Helicon makes some great bracelets, so I wouldn’t mind paying a premium for this option.

Legibility is quite good on this one, the blocks of Superluminova not only look like applied markers but they also glow quite nicely, this includes the full bezel which is quite an eye candy to see in the dark.

With the 4 variations offered, the personality of the watch changes quite a bit. The most neutral version to my eyes is the Graphene Grey, which can blend in any situation, it is modern enough to use everyday and with the right strap, it could look more causal, it would still be a tool but also every diver out there has a similar appeal, so why not a chronograph?

I guess if I had to go all in, the Ion Yellow would be my choice, it is the most attractive of all. The black contrasting sub-dials do make an impact; it is a proper summer watch.

Concluding thoughts

We still haven’t got to one of the best parts of the watch and that is the price. The Helicon Mustard is now live at Kickstarter for 279 GBP which is outstanding value for what it delivers. We must consider that this is a watch that is being assembled and regulated here in the UK, which really makes us wonder how they got to this price point with this quality. I would assume that there will be more updates to the campaign and so you better make sure to follow them here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/heliconwatches/helicon-professional-chronograph-a-space-watch-on-a-mission/description

In the meantime, we can say that this is a watch that will bring many days of joy to the wearer, the quality is there with a great dose of originality, the Mustard doesn’t look like anything else out there, and as a tool watch, it can be faulted.

Make sure you follow this independent British brand and feel free to say hello in all the channels they have available, Helicon are very approachable and that is also part of the appeal.

For more information, please visit https://heliconwatches.com/ 

Technical Specifications

·       316L stainless steel case – Built for toughness and longevity

·       Sapphire crystal with internal AR coating – Superior scratch resistance and legibility

·       Bi-directional bezel – Functional and easy to use in all conditions

·       Two-layer dial – Adding depth and clarity to the design

·       Swiss Super-LumiNova – Ensuring visibility in all lighting conditions

·       Seiko Hybrid Quartz-Mechanical Movement – A proven, reliable engine for this timepiece

·       Hydraulic case back – Designed for both negative and positive pressure resistance

·       100m water resistance – Built for adventure

·       Diameter 41mm

·       Thickness 11.95 mm

·       Lug to lug length 47.5mm

·       Lug width for straps 20mm