Can a diver be minimalist? The Fleux 004

Tool watches are one of my favourite categories. Fleux, the Canadian based brand, makes some of the most impressive vintage inspired pieces we have reviewed over the last year. Their offering is quite cohesive and today we are lucky to get hands on what probably is their most unique offering: the FLX004. 

Long gone are the days when divers depend on their wrist watch for timing their activities, which in a way is a bit sad but also for watchmakers, it opens a world of possibilities in terms of design.

Sure, as watch enthusiasts we want robustness and water resistance covered, but we also love a well designed object, a beautiful thing.

Here is where the new Fleux creation blends functionality with flair. The FLX004 unlike its siblings, it’s a statement watch, it is not something you’ll find in a tool box but rather in a music room.

That said, the watch still maintains its true nature, but because the base design from Fleux it’s so versatile, the slightest change still works.

Join me to discover the latest iteration from this fascinating brand and hope you enjoy it.

The specifications 

As the rest of the offering, the new FLX004 provides the same dimensions than the rest of the current  lineup.

The case is 38mm at the base while the bezel is 39mm at the top to provide ease of grip. The watch is well proportioned while also robust in construction, no need to change what is working right? 

We can find that the main changes are reflected on the bezel and dial. The all black aluminum bezel feels very elegant with no markings at plain sight, just the pip at 12. It is still frictionless and very slim. The dial is also something that we quite enjoyed, it is divided by the crosshair in 4 parts. On the top right hand corner you can spot the name of the brand and in the bottom left one, the watch depth and “automatic”, that’s it and somehow it works. The symmetry is maintained and the gilt lettering matches the beige lume on the hands, it is simple but effective to the eye. 

There is a silver chapter which is seems as thick as the bezel, the temptation of adding any markings to tell the time has been avoided on the FLX004. The crosshair pattern actually does a good job in terms of time orientation, but again this is not a watch that will be precisely set every-time you want to use it and to me, that gives an air of charm. 

That said if you really want to use it as a diver, it shouldn’t be any problems to calculate 15 min with the marker at the bezel. And if you are after a true diver's watch , the 200m of water resistance and screw down crown will give you plenty of security.

Turn the watch over and a simple case back adorns the FLX004. Inside, you can find the reliable SII NH38A movement from no other than Seiko, robust and keeps also the price down, more on that later. 

On the wrist 

The short lug to lug of 47mm added with then the height of 12mm, makes the FLX004 to wear like a charm. The hesalite crystal is 2mm tall and it gives this lovely vintage vibe that sapphire cannot mimic, it distorts the edges quite nicely, it provides a warmth that also matches the colour of the luminova.

Legibility is quite good specially with a glossy black dial. The arrow hand is easy to distinguish from the minute one, Then we also have the dial partition, which makes everyday life a little bit more convenient.

The watch comes with a recycled ocean strap with quick release spring bars, it is on the dressy side which adds a touch of elegance much needed to what can be a perfect diver.

I wore the FLX004 mostly at the office, and unlike its brothers, this one did not touch the water or more extreme activities. That said, it still exceeded my expectations, the versatility with the style of the dial is ideal. It is a “tool” watch with formal clothes, a top contender for my wrist on the last month, it is that good.

The watch also looks great on a variety of straps and my favourite would be a grey nato style strap, it just looks like nothing out there without taking the style away.

Concluding thoughts 

Taking what is key on a tool watch can be a dangerous exercise, it could leave you with a bland object, a soulless one. What I’ve enjoyed about the FLX004 is that with these changes, the watch gave me completely the opposite feeling: more mature, a bit more elegant and less brute. No one is going to accuse Fleux for not making stylish watches, but the FLX004 takes the denomination it to another level, it’s just a diver that could fit in anyone’s collection.

To me this new entry into the line up is very much welcomed, and perhaps for those who believe that a dress watch is not for them, the FLX004 offers a good bridge to both styles. You could potentially start dipping your feet in this particular category.

Coming back to the price, the FLX004 is a complete bargain. A well design watch under 499 USD is a real finding these days. Not only you will enjoy the Fleux design language but also have something unique on your wrist.

We can definitely say that a diver can be minimalistic, it is just a matter of balance and know how, this is one is here to enjoy.

Would Fleux make a white watch at some point? I am not sure but these black glassy dials have won a space in my watch box.

For more information visit https://www.fleuxwatches.com/products/fleux-flx004

Technical Specifications

• 316L Stainless steel case

• 20ATM (660ft = 200m) water resistance

• 38mm case (+1mm with bezel)

• 14mm case thickness (to top of crystal)

• 12mm case thickness (from the bottom of the lugs to the top of the bezel)

• 47mm lug-to-lug

• 20mm lug width

• Hesalite double-domed crystal

• Brushed case finishing

• Polished chamfers

• Bi-directional friction fit bezel

• Aluminum bezel insert

• SII NH38A Movement (Japan) | 21,600 bph | -20~+40s per day | 41 hr power reserve

• Super-Luminova C3 "Old Radium" puffy lume plots

• "OG" caseback (only on FLX001 and FLX002 models)

• SEAQUAL recycled ocean plastic strap w/ quick release spring bars

• Saffiano leather (PU) flat-pack travel watch box