The one watch collection – Micromilspec Miligraph

In this hobby at least for us nerds, the idea of having one watch is something that we often play with. I have 2 very strong rules when it comes to collecting habits, I cannot repeat the brand and also, I cannot repeat the complication, if this happens, then a watch must leave. I have to say that keeps me calmer and allows me to think more on what my next watch should be, and if I really love it, then leaving one behind shouldn’t be an issue, or at least I see it that way.

Not sure why this way of collecting got into my head, but I always like to have a good diver, a proper GMT and a mechanical chronograph. Of course, the brain will find excuses to accommodate something that is not so different but still, keeps you in check, until now.

In the past, one of my noble quests was to look for a watch that could accommodate these 3 sport complications; a 2^nd time zone watches with a chronograph that could also be a diver. It was not an easy task but there are quite a few watches out there which ready for the job. That said, these mechanical companions were always a bit unwearable, often too thick and perhaps too large, not to mention that they felt into an outrageous price bracket.

This is when I came across the Miligraph from Micromilspec, a watch that in paper has it all but was produced in such limited quantities, that I’ve always thought that it would be impossible get a good hands-on time. Somehow, with help of the community, we managed to spend 2 weeks with this absolute masterpiece.

Join me to understand why this could be my next watch.

The specifications

The Miligraph starts with the right foot as it is made of Titanium grade 5, not only makes it light but also the grey shade of the materials highlights its true tool nature. Measuring 42mm in diameter and 50mm lug to lug, the watch feels great on my 6.25-inch wrist. The lug-to-lug measurement might sound large but because it is an integrated style design, the overall composition feels very manageable.

The Miligraph is also a unique design, it is its own thing which makes me appreciate it even more. Sure, you can have cues from the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and also the Rolex Explorer II 1655 when it comes to the orange hand, but as an overall exercise it cannot be confused with anything else.

There are a lot of details when it comes to the Miligraph and no wonder because you have 3 different registers for the chronograph and the hour, minute and GMT hand with the 24-hour scale. It is a lot to digest but somehow it works, it even leaves space for the branding and depth information, it works. The texture dial helps to avoid reflections and creates a good contrast that allow the Miligraph to become a very legible watch.

Another part that I quite enjoyed was the unidirectional bezel and its action, it was refined and quite nice to operate, it has a triangle at 12 and although it might not be orientated towards a diving crew, the 100 meters of water resistance provide that aquatic aspiration.

If we are being nitpicky, the only complication that the Miligraph is missing is the date, but in terms of design the watch stays quite symmetrical. The left-hand crown is also a nice touch to keep the watch safe from knocks, it controls the LJP L121 movement which has been crafter in Switzerland by La Joux-Perret. This engine features a column wheel chronograph, the GMT 24 hours complication with 60 hours of power reserve, it is quite a machine that delivers performance to a very complete package.

On the wrist

Being a titanium watch, the Miligraph wears quite light, aided by the FMK rubber strap, it feels planted on the wrist. The closed case back helps to keep things thinner at 15mm. Let us remember the number of features that this watch houses and because is 42mm in diameter, feels better proportioned than a Tudor Black Bay Pro which has the same thickness.

Legibility is spot on with the Miligraph, the variety in terms of handset is great and helps to differentiate the complications quite easily. The trapezoid pushers are easy to grip and with the bead blasted surfaces of the case, everything feels very utilitarian. In overall the watch makes you feel like a professional military personnel, a tactician, someone who enjoys precision.  

I wore the Miligraph mostly for outdoor activities, nothing very challenging for the watch but it felt that it could take quite a beating. The rubber was extremely comfortable and sure the orange rubber gives an extra sporty touch, but in overall this watch is quite muted, it is not an attention grabber.

The Miligraph can easily adapt to more causal environments, specially in the summer, it is quite a companion for travelling, not only because of the compact size but because you can basically do anything with it and not worry about it.

Concluding thoughts

There is no easy way to include the MIligraph to my collection, not because I do not want to, but because I would have to take 3 watches out of my collection, that said, it is something that I am actively considering, mainly because we haven’t got to the best part of the watch yet, the price.

The MIligraph is offered at 2900 GBP, you do not need me to tell you that this is an amazing price and much less that any entry level luxury watches from any of the big brands out there. This is a piece that not only delivers on performance and looks, it is a watch can easily make you re engage with the word value and also the microbrand world, it is that good.

To order the Miligraph, you will have to wait every 29^th of August and once orders are closed, the 50 limited series per year will begin production, after spending almost 3 weeks with the watch, I can say that is worth the wait.

Micromilspec has done a great job in order bringing one of the coolest watches I’ve reviewed so far, not only meet my expectations but also surpassed them. Male sure you are able to grab one.

For more information please visit https://www.micromilspec.com/products/milgraph-watch

Technical Specifications

·       Titanium Grade 5

·       Microblasted Titanium Grade 5

·       Case height 15 mm

·       Case diameter 42mm

·       Screw in crown

·       Seamlessly integrated bracelet and straps.

·       Finish Satin brushed. Unidirectional.

·       Power Reserve 60 hours

·       Movement LJP L121, Soignée