Recreating the golden era of watches – The Aquatique GMT from Hult Watch Co.

Diver watches are utilitarian, and that is why we love them but a traveler GMT is something different. We have seen plenty brands adding an extra hand and a different bezel to make a travelers watch but there is much more to do to make this work. I came across Hult Watch Company a while back and I saw what they did with their first release the Aquatique, as soon as I looked over the design I really thought that I had the potential to become that GMT we all dream about, let me explain.

A GMT watch (not talking about the function here) is a type of object that has a prestige attached to it, and while it also came as a necessity like his brother the diver, it was a more niche proposition. You see, in the 50s, recreational diving was open to a lot of people but flying was only reserved for a very selected club, and inside that club the elegance was one of the first things in offered. Look at pictures of the food, service and even how people dressed back then on an aircraft, it was social event where pilots were treated like rockstars.

Naturally this means that watches had to be up to the standards and while the Glycine Airman came earlier with a more utilitarian design capturing 2 time zones,  the Rolex GMT Master was at the right place in the right time with a spot-on design. To my eyes, this is the main reason why GMT watches are popular but the fail in equal measure, the watch companies loses sight on why they were great, here is where Hult Watch Co. is shining.

The Aquatique GMT as the name suggests, is an evolution of their first model but they added the right ingredients to make it what it needs to be: a luxury proposition.

Join me to discover why I enjoyed this watch so much and thinking about adding one to my own personal collection, it is that good. Let’s begin.

The specifications

Size matters, and in this particular case the slimmer and smaller the watch the better. Sure, the case cannot be minuscule to be illegible, after all it can also be considered a pilot’s watch but it needs to fit under a jacket. The Aquatique has a 37.4 mm stainless steel case and a very short lug to lug of 43.5mm which means that it wears like a charm on my 6.25 inch wrist, it is the golden ratio. Our sample version is the Terra two-tone variant which on paper, might put a stop to some of you but not to me. I believe this is by far the coolest version of the 3 ( there is Graphite and Terra non two-tone version available) because it has that aura of excess from the time where these watches were born, it takes you back.

The two-tone details from the crown, bracelet (more on this later), markers and hands make everything warmer and in my opinion, it matches better the brown texture dial, it’s a saturated experience and I quite enjoy it.

Staying with the dial, the applied markers overlap with the ‘’explorer’’ style layout, it which visually works and it matches the 4 hands which are a mixed of syringe and pointers designs, quite a harmonious composition. There is a framed date at six to keep everything symmetrical,  gilt writing on the dial and very legible overall.

The sapphire insert mimics those Bakelite bezels  from the period, the transparent nature gives the numerals a nice faded look with the night half in dark brown and day half in a more chocolate palette. Of course, one small niggle is that the bezel is 120 clicks and unidirectional, but at the end of the day we have to remember that this is an aquatic inspired watch too with 200 meters of water resistance. Sure, I would it to be bi-directional but once you set the bezel to the right time zone, you will barely interact with it, and again, you have a capable diver at the same time.

Turn the watch over and the Aquatique has a trick under its sleeve with an open caseback allowing you to see the Miyota 9075. This is as you might know a ‘’true’’ GMT which is capable of keeping the time zone in place while you jump to another one with the hour hand, just like it was envision in the past.

On the wrist

With those dimensions you can imagine that the Aquatique can be worn by many wrists and you will be right but there is another important measurement which is the height. At 11.2 mm tall, the Aquatique is a lovely thing to wear and enjoy, the slenderness mixed with the compact dimensions truly makes it a GADA watch.

The bracelet needs its own paragraph because the ‘’jubilee’’ style was made for this style of watch. The solid links just drape on the wrist and it is finished with a solid milled clasp which includes a micro adjustment on the ‘’fly’’, good features at an amazing price, we will come to that later.

I would admit that the Terra tow-tone might not be gym material or at least not for me, it is a watch to enjoy in a more relaxing environment (or travelling of course), it is classy and because of the brown dial, it all looks more luxurious, more grown up. Luckily Hult also offers that Graphite version which could be the perfect all rounder but we are here for the gold!

Legibility is also good, I was concern that gold tones mixed with browns and stainless steel. I thought it  might end up as a bad cocktail but somehow it works nicely. The coin edge of the bezel which is also in gold, makes the side profile feel special, I quite enjoy the end product.

Concluding thoughts

I wanted to bring the elements of the watch together before the price, so it is that time now. The Aquatique in any of its 3 variants is listed for pre-order at 470 GBP which is a great price for a watch with these amount of details adding a premium movement. Beyond that, I think that the looks and feel of the watch feel far superior than the price suggest, it can easily be treated as a watch closer to the 1000 GBP mark.

I am always in the hunt for the perfect GMT and the Hult Aquatique has ticked all the necessary boxes in my checklist and I might have to put my money where needs to. This is an enjoyable, well-built and accessible watch that will surprise you, it can also feel like the only watch you need, and to me that is special.

Another point is that I like that it has no ‘’fauxtina’’ is done with upmost respect on what a watch from the 50s should look like, it is utilitarian but it is also a status symbol. Quite love it.

For more information please visit https://hultwatches.com/products/aquatique-gmt-terra-two-tone  

Technical information

Diameter: 37,4mmThickness without crystal: 11,20mmThickness with crystal: 13,20mm Lug-to-lug: 43,5mmLug width: 20mm

Miyota 9075 Automatic GMT, 28’800 VPH / BPH, 42H power reserve

- Five-link two-tone bracelet in 316L stainless steel with gold-toned center links and quick-fly micro adjustment

- Tapers from 20 mm to 16 mm. Clasp measures 18.5 mm wide, 42 mm long, and 7.5 mm thick

- Fits wrist sizes from 14.5 cm (all links removed) to 19.5 cm (all links + full micro adjustment)

120-click unidirectional rotating bezel with ball-bearing mechanism, domed sapphire bezel insert and Super-LumiNova BGW9 markers.

316L Stainless Steel

Silver satin finish with gold-toned accents (silver polished chamfers).

Sapphire crystal case back.

Brown gradient dial with fine sandpaper texture, featuring gold-toned applied markers filled with Super-LumiNova® BGW9.

Gold-toned polished hands filled with Super-LumiNova® BGW9.

Gold-toned, screw-in crown embossed Hult Watch Company marque.

Top hat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

WR 200m = 660ft (20ATM)