When the proportions are right – Wancher Tenji Chronograph

Proportions matter, specially when it comes with complicated watches, and in this hobby, nothing can be as complicated as a chronograph. You see, chronographs are part of the 6 master complications in watchmaking with a good reason, the amount of movable parts on the watch that need to perform correctly are staggering.

Inside chronograph, there are 2 or even 3 categories that make our subject matter even more complex. The ratrappante or split chronograph can time 2 events with the push of a button, sounds simple but it usually requires a whole new gear train on top of the original one. Then we have the flyback, which enables the chronograph hand to reset with a push of the start button, no stop just keeps timing the event. All of this complexity has a formula, more parts equals more thickness which at the same time is equivalent to a higher cost, our little dream has been shattered.

This is where quartz chronograph can be of help. They can be produced in masses while keeping the prices down and adding complications that do not require as much parts, just a circuit board. That said, it is a little bit too convenient, and the magic of moving parts with a mechanical feeling is lost, yes we are complicated people.

In order to avoid this pitfall, JLC had a great idea by keeping the basic gear train of the chronograph and add a quartz module for the rest of the watch. It was brilliant because the pushers kept that ‘’piston’’ feeling but now the whole watch has the accuracy of a non-mechanical movement, best of both worlds.

Thinness was another benefit and of course to produce it in a smaller case, the new era of chronographs was born but again, being innovative and being JLC,  the final product wasn’t affordable. Move forward to 1983 and Seiko started to produced their first attempts on this innovate engine, and now from 2010, we have the amazing VK64 which powers a vast majority of microbrands and also our Tenji Chronograph from Wancher.

We have experienced this particular movement in several watches but not many have achieved those great proportions until now. The Tenji is a watch that not only feels special but also like an everyday chronograph which is not an easy thing to say. Join me to discover one of the coolest deliveries from the land of the rising sun, let’s begin.

The specifications

There is a reason for my praising on the sizing of the Tenji. It measures 38mm in diameter with a short lug to lug of 44mm which is key for everyday wear. Then we have the case which is a mixture of satin with brushed finishing, the wide stand of the lugs gives a very strong character and adds nice beveling edges which elevate the sophistication of the design. The black dial is intense with yellow gold numerals and matching baton hands, it all works well and a well framed date also in yellow gold completes the picture.

The subdials are made with a concentric pattern for legibility porpoises, it is an elegant and simple solution that also works well with the gold lancet hands, beautiful harmony, beautiful watch.

The pump pushers are well executed and match the overall look of the Tenji, with a proportional crown that it is easy to operate. The watch gives you a respectable 50 meters of water resistance.

Under the hood, we can find that amazing VK64 mecaquartz movement, which not only performs but also feels incredible in action. It is accurate like any other quartz movement but again, with that mechanical feel that we nerds love and enjoy adding the flyback functionality, it feels high-end.

On the wrist

No little detail has gone unnoticed here, the Tenji wears like a charm on my 6.25 inch wrist and the design of the case has a lot to do with it. The lugs hug the wrist nicely and then with the short base, it just feels at home.

The double layer of AR coating makes the Tenji very legible but it is also aided by the fact on how all the information is displayed. There are 3 types of finishing on the dial for this particular reason, the tachymeter scale is nicely laid out and some of the key markers are in red to provide more contrast on what it is already a very legible piece.

As mentioned, the Tenji is a watch you can use anywhere, sure, the gold accents make it a bit more dressy and it is enhanced by the supplied black leather strap. But if you take a risk to add a more conventional green or even grey strap, the watch will shine nicely when and where it needs to.

I wore the Tenji mostly at home, I wanted to be careful with it because it needed to go back at some point but it really doesn’t disappoint when it comes to looks or wearing experience. It is light, compact and attractive, also let’s not forget that there is nothing to wind, oh yes, it is also accurate to the second, yes, I love it.

Another small but good detail is that the watch doesn’t have a seconds hand, there I no ticking going on, only when you press the start pusher and then, it is time for the sweeping chronograph hand, an outstanding feel including when you press reset, it just flies back.

Concluding thoughts

The Tenji is not only a complete package but it is also affordable, at the moment unfortunately is sold out, but this year I am sure there will be a second batch coming. The last sold model was priced at 380 USD and when you try to find an equivalent with this movement and with this quality, the search becomes almost a quest, it is impossible.

There are many good things to say about Wancher and their latest Tenji, but one thing is for sure, this is watch that anyone can wear, it is the perfect start of a collection or who know, the perfect ending of one. I am looking forward to see what else comes from this innovate brand, better stay tuned.

For more information please visit https://wancherwatch.com/collections/all-watches/products/tenji-chronograph-watch

Technical specifications:

·       Release Date     16th November 2025

·       Case Size (Case x Thickness)        38mm x 15mm x 44mm

·       Case Material    316L Polished Stainless Steel Case

·       Lug Width          20mm  

·       Lug to Lug:         45mm

·       Dial Material       Stainless Steel

·       Movement         Japanese Seiko VK64 Mecaquartz

·       Strap Material + Clasp    Soft Calfskin Genuine Leather Strap + Pin Type

·       Water Resistance            50 Meters

·       Crystal  Sapphire Crystal

·       Other features  Luminous Hands and Hour markers, 2x Double Anti-Glare Coating