A luxury companion for the sea – the Skindiver CMM.20 from Yema

Luxury is having more than you need, and in the world of watches, the whole genre can be based on this thought. There are levels of course, no only having more but also how is delivered, what is brought to the table in terms of value but above all, refinement which key.

If you followed Yema just like every other watch enthusiast, you understand that heritage is a great asset for any brand. Founded in the 50’s, the French maison has been obsessed with delivering robust and reliable products but, because watches as tools are obsolete, they can now focus on that refinement we mentioned earlier, luxury.

I am lucky to have with me (on my wrist at the moment) their new Skindiver CMM.20 which is an incredible machine delivering what I think is the best balance between value and heritage. As the name suggest, this is their newest iteration of a diver which is thinner, lighter and this time, unlike the nature of Skindivers from the 60’s, it doesn’t compromise on water resistance.

Yema has packed their new watch with an endless list of features, because this is not a mass produced watch, it is a well crafted evolution on what they were offering a few years back. To this point, it has been great to see how Yema shifted in the right direction in little or no time, and I am glad to be part of it.

Join me to discover this stunning watch that by the way, houses their latest micro rotor caliber (yes, you read that right) more on that later. Let’s begin to uncover.

Technical Specifications

It takes quite a few words to describe a case made by Yema. The amount of details are vast, on the Skindiver we can find beveled lugs , satin and polishing together with a robust 3 part construction, it is a testament to ‘’knowhow’’. The bezel has also received a touch of evolution with their new ‘’push to unlock’’ system instead of the iconic bezel lock, it is a more elegant and sophisticated solution that feels at home in a luxury diver, again that word.

The bezel itself has a sapphire inlay in beige which matches our press sample dial, very thin and easy to read adding a luminous pip at 12. Staying with the dial, the Skindiver provides a slight brushing in terms of finishing and on top, we can find those retro trapezoid markers with elongated Arabic numerals to denote the hours, it is quite a composition. Part of the retro vibes charms are given by the 2.2mm double domed sapphire crystal, it distorts the edges but at the same time makes the dial feel like a capsule, a lovely warm hue.

The handset is pure Yema with a triangle minute hand and a lollipop seconds hands, all filled with Grade A SuperLuminova just like the markers, the effect is potent and well applied, I did not expect any less and they delivered.

 Controlled by the screw down crown and under the face of the Skindiver, we have what to me is the best part of the watch, the movement. Turn it over and you will be greeted with their new high end in-house caliber CMM.20 which is worth looking at. It takes the full back of the Skindiver with 32mm in diameter (as every movement should) and has been coated with galvanic treatment and soleil finishing for a more dramatic effect. The architecture is quite attractive too, it has a full balance bridge with main plates separated to give way to the tungsten microrotor providing 70 hours of power reserve, I did mentioned that this is an impressive machine. The caliber itself is 3.7mm thin and it keeps time accurate at COSC level, I quite enjoy that it has no date because it also keeps things symmetrical on the top side.

The watch not only keeps time well but also provides the accustomed 300 meters of water resistance that Yema has spoiled us with, like I said, a Skindiver that doesn’t compromise.

On the wrist

It would be very unpleasant if a watch which has a name that depicts comfort and thinness comes out as thick and unwearable. The Skindiver CMM.20 is a second skin, not only because is thin by nature at 11.5mm but because of the ergonomics, how those lugs dig into your wrist.

Also another improvement I’ve seen from their cases is the tight tolerances in manufacturing, they are quite well executed and the 20mm spacing holds what has to be the best bracelet I’ve tried on a diver at any price point period. The scales slim bracelet is a joy to wear, it adapts to my 6.25 inch wrist to perfection specially with that 47mm lug to lug measurement of the case.

At the beginning, with the pictures I wasn’t convinced because the end links of the bracelet flared out and looked very rigid which differs from the brick bracelet I have on my personal Yeam Superman GMT. But then as soon as I put the watch on, it made so much sense because it adapts from the bottom making it feel like a true bracelet and not a strap, it is hard to explain but trust me, it is as comfortable as anything I’ve tried so far.

Not happy with a very good looking bracelet that mimics a metal animal, Yema decided to give an on the fly micro adjustment that can be operated while the watch is on. I prefer this system instead of being hidden in the clasp because it makes everything thinner and more usable.

I wore the Skindiver everywhere, and of course on the bracelet. I did not find the courage to put it on a nylon strap because the looks and feel are outstanding. It is easy to live with, go to the gym and your wrist will expand, no problem for a clasp that adapts. Go to a casual event and thinness becomes the norm, it is versatile and that champagne/beige dial is just like a I want my next watch to be, writing can be a dangerous hobby for the wallet.

Concluding thoughts

There is no other way to read this as a very positive review and it should be. The amount of features that the Skindiver brings to the wrist are quite large, there is something special about having a brand that has been around for more than 70 years and for this particular watch, it feels like is the apex of the all their divers in my opinion. There is a Superman Tourbillon but that is another story.

The price is something that we haven’t comment yet. Yema is asking 2.248 GBP for any of their Skindivers variations (Red, Black and our Champagne dial).  This is a price tag that for me feels very attractive because the overall package is outstanding, to be honest I was expecting north of the 3K GBP mark, and even then, it would still be fairly priced. As you can see I am sold.

Yema is giving not only a luxury item for a price that undercuts the competition by a significant market. Brands like Tudor, Breitling and Bremont are offering great value divers with lots of heritage but not as close in technical capabilities as our Skindiver. The CMM.20 is the a unique selling points on its own, and let’s not forget, some of these brands mentioned, still use ebauche base movement with a higher end price. There is nothing wrong with 3^rd party engines but I know where I would be putting my money, specially with a 5 years warranty.

If you are in the market for a special watch, not just a purchase this could be your next companion, it is robust, accurate and it can make a splash, it is a watch for those who seek refinement and not approval. I am looking forward to see what comes next from them.

If you want more information please visit: Yema Collection Skindiver  

Technical Specifications

·       Dimensions 39mm (diameter) × 47mm (lug-to-lug) × 12.2mm (thickness with crystal)

·       Double-domed sapphire glass

·       Case Back Stainless steel and sapphire crystal, screw-in

·       Movement Yema Calibre

o   Manufacture Morteau 20 (CMM.20): automatic micro-rotor movement with manual winding

o   28,800vph frequency

o   70-hour power reserve

o   33 jewels

o   -3/+7-second daily accuracy

·       Water Resistance 300m (30 bar)

·       Stainless steel Scales Slim bracelet with folding clasp and micro adjustment