On the hunt for the affordable mechanical chronograph – The Wancher Chronograph

Microbrands for better or for worst are here to stay. For a consumer it is good to see options, but it can also be daunting when it comes a time to choose. One thing is undeniable, the gap between entry level watches from established brands and those from not so well known, it’s getting blurrier.

As an example, long gone are the days when Hamilton or Tissot were not challenged by the spec sheet that watches from Japan, China and UK have to offer. Sure, they might not have the prestige nor the history, but in terms of manufacturing, they are pretty close.

Divers and field watches were the first one to feel the heat from the rise of independents, and then with the Miyota Jumping hour module, the GMT was next. One category that hasn’t really cemented was the mechanical chronograph one. I said mechanical because the Seiko VK64 has done wonders but, as an actual fully mechanical chronograph, there is not much to go after, if you want to keep it affordable of course.

There are other problems too, 3^rd party automatic mechanical movements are also modular, which means that they are not only expensive but thick, and then if you want to shave a few mm, hand wound movements are the way, but they are even more expensive.

So where are we left with? Well, the Seagull ST19. It is a legendary piece, derivative from the Venus calibre from the 30s, the rights were bought in the 70s and now we can see this movement in several watches, quite a history. That said, it is also know for its reliability and not in a good way but, we can deny that they have the architecture, feel and thinness is on its side. It just needs to be regulated and have a good QC.

Today we are reviewing one of those watches that not only looks the part but also has our ST19 as an engine: the Wancher Chronograph. Join me to discover it.

The specifications

To make a chronograph great, you need proportions, sure people love to talk about those AP Offshore, but the truth is that nothing beats a good slim manual wound watch. The Wancher is 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 10mm, quite stunning, this makes it one of the easier to wear pieces I own period. The stainless-steel case is quite well made with polished and brushed surfaces on top, a good execution. All 3 crowns are screwdown and provide water resistance, it is a powerful look, one the we expect in watches 10 times the price, more on that later.

The dial is quite attractive and there is no denying that it is looking at those older Rolex Daytona references for inspiration, but there are also details from the Speedmaster and Omega in general. The sword hands are quite long and pronounced and the markers look like ‘’teeth’’ while hugging the subdials in the middle.

As per every chronograph, there is a lot going on with numerals everywhere, a large-scale bezel and also the subdials. That said the Wancher looks great with minimal texting in that matte grey dial, it might look black on the pictures, but it is a grey thing.

As we mentioned the watch is powered by the Seagull ST19, which includes a column wheel and 45 hours of power reserve. It has been performing well since I got it out of the box, and I am incredibly happy with the performance which is less than 10 seconds per day even while using the chronograph function.

On the wrist

As mentioned, the proportions are quite good, there is nothing that looks better in my 6.25-inch wrist than a 40mm watch, it is the perfect number. This is aided by the 48mm lug to lug distance and the 20mm aperture for the strap, it can use almost any colour because of its monochromatic scheme.

Staying with the strap, the Wancher comes with one of the most robust leathers I’ve seen on a watch, it is not generic, and it also fits well with the overall vintage style. The watch comes also with a stainless-steel bracelet which I haven’t tried but in my opinion a Cordura strap or a nato (taking advantage of the slimness) would look at home in here.

I wore the Wancher Chronograph almost every day, in fact I am wearing it as we speak and the looks it is something that I truly appreciate, it not only feels like a tool watch, but it also feels classy, very understated in some kind of way. The lume gives great visibility over night and the fact that it has no date, makes everything symmetrical, very pleasing to the eyes.

Concluding thoughts

There is something great of wearing a chronograph with a manual movement, water resistance and good looks. The Wancher really ticks all the boxes that I wanted in this type of watch and matches the budget department. The Chronograph is prices at a very fair $320 USD which is an outstanding value considering what it represents, you will be hard press to find this type of quality with features not only at a lower price but also at a closer one.

This is the only version that is offered by the brand and potentially there are other variants comings, who knows maybe a white panda version?

If the microbrand space is clear on one thing is that value always comes first, hopefully the lovely Wancher Chronograph can continue this ethos for you, I know that for me, is the one that is going to keep ticking.

Technical specifications

·       Case Size (Case x Thickness x Diameter)     40mm x 10mm x 44mm

·       Case Material               316L Polished Stainless Steel Case

·       Lug Width        20mm  Lug to Lug:      48mm

·       Dial Material   Grey Painted Dial

·       Movement       Seagull ST19 Manual Hand Wind Mechanical Movement

·       Power Reserve              45 hours

·       High Beat         21,600 bph

·       Accuracy          +/- 10 to +- 40 seconds Per Day

·       Strap Material + Clasp                Stainless Steel + Button Quick Release Butterfly Clasp